There's a very good chance that I don't care.
Hopefully buying. No real purpose in mind, other than to have it take up space in the shop and maybe poke holes in things and cut a slot here and there.
Thanks for the pointers... and the admonishments... Just figured tooling and the single phase conversion would be worth *something*. If we're looking at $700 for a bare machine, unless that's going to get me into DRO territory as well. I just don't have any idea what they bring as the fanciest thing I use to poke holes is a drill that ain't got no cord for the electrickery to go through.I will find you and I will jam a 9/16" drill bit into your temple if you buy that.
Go to bidspotter.com
Drop down menu "all auctions" click
Scroll down until you reach Indiana in the left hand bar.
Remember...you're searching knee-mills not just Bridgeports. You can't let a newer Kent or even a Jet go undiscovered.
Go to proxibid.com search all the variations.
I wouldn't pay more than $700 for the one you linked on Craigslist. Industrial auctions have taken a bit of a hit since the bigger dummies discovered the value but there are still deals to be had. The one you linked MIGHT hit 600-700 at an auction depending on location.
Thanks for the pointers... and the admonishments... Just figured tooling and the single phase conversion would be worth *something*. If we're looking at $700 for a bare machine, unless that's going to get me into DRO territory as well. I just don't have any idea what they bring as the fanciest thing I use to poke holes is a drill that ain't got no cord for the electrickery to go through.
Just looking for slop when the knuckle is off zero. Rare but it'll pen an ellipse and if it pens an ellipse then you'll be angry.Also, I think I followed everything except the dial-indicate 0-20 degrees is that checking for slop when angled? or am i thinking wrong. I have just the most general idea of the capabilities of a milling machine.
The mill that I shot the pictures...$750. Has DRO but I'll probably put on new. Just got it in about a week ago. All tight and ready to rock. As long as you aren't antsy you'll be surprised what you find at industrial auctions based on your budget.Thanks for the pointers... and the admonishments... Just figured tooling and the single phase conversion would be worth *something*. If we're looking at $700 for a bare machine, unless that's going to get me into DRO territory as well. I just don't have any idea what they bring as the fanciest thing I use to poke holes is a drill that ain't got no cord for the electrickery to go through.
Well fine then. Acting like you know shit and stuff.No you won't. You'll get a variable frequency drive.
Just trying to help. I've been through Indiana before...its a shithole. I just assumed you need all the help you can get.Well fine then. Acting like you know shit and stuff.
I don't buy for personal use so my end game is totally different than you. I try my best to visit on big ticket items and kick the tires but that's not always possible. I will roll the dice occasionally if I can mitigate risk and maximize reward. I found two robotic welding cells in Texas that I knew a customer would gush over. I wasn't about to saunter down to Texas to look myself so I creatively talked the auctioneer into sending specific pictures. I was happy with what I saw so I made a gentlemen's agreement on the sale of the units before the auction started. I was even if each cell hammered at 20k a piece. If they exceeded 20k then I was on the hook. History and wisdom led me to believe each would end in the 9-10 range. I would have been happy if neither exceeded 13 on this particular deal since the extent of my involvement was knowledge and e-mails. I didn't HAVE to touch a thing.Do you typically buy stuff in person? Seems like the shit I'm looking at is a fair piece away. If you buy offsite, do you pay freight, or haul yourself?
Know anything about metal cutting circular saws? Just used the Makita we have here at work and it seems kind of awesome.BTW...all salesmen lie. The next time someone says "I got it for X and will sell it for Y....cut X by at least 2/3. You are going in with end user money. Shitheads like me need to make their nut on the deal. End users always win because you are eating our nut.
Thanks for the reply Craz.Milwaukee makes a decent worm drive that is built for cutting steel. The shops that I have helped usually have one sitting on a shelf. They work as well as the blade. So if you are going to use a saw rather than plas or oxy fuel make sure you keep a supply of good blades on hand. Also, the blade lifetime is directly related to the number of, and skill of the workers using the saw. A moron will dull a blade much quicker than a skilled worker. Three operators will dull a blade quicker than a designated cut man. Last but not least. Adjust the blade depth for the gauge you are cutting. We have found that adjusting to 1/2 inch below depth will conserve the blade. Adjusting to max depth for all cuts will waste the blade.
Realistically most fitters will choose a hand plas over the saw, it is quicker to change consumables and desiccant than blades and with a drag tip and a straight edge the cut is way faster.
(If you are going to cut over 1/2 inch material don't waste yur time on anything under a 100amp plasma source.)
Yup. With steel bits flying all over the place, and the horrendous screeching of the blade rubbing against the cut, PPE is a must.Firstly I was wrong. I don't think the metal specific saw is a worm drive. I'm looking in the latest Northern tool and supply catalogue and it's retailing there for $299. Note the shroud configuration when you look at it. If you generally preload the shroud of your saws to get better visibility you will find it very difficult to do with the 6370-21. They don't want fingers anywhere near the blade so get used to striking an offset line to use as a guide and don't plan on preloading to cheat -peek during the cut. Also wear your PPE, your ears and eyes fingers are in jeopardy any time you cut steel. also think about the drop. A 2 X 4 ain't gonna smash your foot or gouge your shin to bone on its way to the floor so use horses and make an adjustable jack stand to support your drop.