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Yo Fister

MisterFister

There's a very good chance that I don't care.
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#22
Hopefully buying. No real purpose in mind, other than to have it take up space in the shop and maybe poke holes in things and cut a slot here and there.

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/tls/5969867467.html

I will find you and I will jam a 9/16" drill bit into your temple if you buy that.

Go to bidspotter.com
Click auctions
Drop down menu "all auctions" click
Scroll down until you reach Indiana in the left hand bar.
View Catalogs

Remember...you're searching knee-mills not just Bridgeports. You can't let a newer Kent or even a Jet go undiscovered.

Go to proxibid.com search all the variations.
http://www.auctionguy.com/IN-auctions.html
http://www.auctionzip.com/in.html

I wouldn't pay more than $700 for the one you linked on Craigslist. Industrial auctions have taken a bit of a hit since the bigger dummies discovered the value but there are still deals to be had. The one you linked MIGHT hit 600-700 at an auction depending on location.

Happy hunting.
 

BrIONwoshMunky

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#23
I will find you and I will jam a 9/16" drill bit into your temple if you buy that.

Go to bidspotter.com
Click auctions
Drop down menu "all auctions" click
Scroll down until you reach Indiana in the left hand bar.
View Catalogs

Remember...you're searching knee-mills not just Bridgeports. You can't let a newer Kent or even a Jet go undiscovered.

Go to proxibid.com search all the variations.
http://www.auctionguy.com/IN-auctions.html
http://www.auctionzip.com/in.html

I wouldn't pay more than $700 for the one you linked on Craigslist. Industrial auctions have taken a bit of a hit since the bigger dummies discovered the value but there are still deals to be had. The one you linked MIGHT hit 600-700 at an auction depending on location.

Happy hunting.
Thanks for the pointers... and the admonishments... Just figured tooling and the single phase conversion would be worth *something*. If we're looking at $700 for a bare machine, unless that's going to get me into DRO territory as well. I just don't have any idea what they bring as the fanciest thing I use to poke holes is a drill that ain't got no cord for the electrickery to go through.
 
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BrIONwoshMunky

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#24
Thanks for the pointers... and the admonishments... Just figured tooling and the single phase conversion would be worth *something*. If we're looking at $700 for a bare machine, unless that's going to get me into DRO territory as well. I just don't have any idea what they bring as the fanciest thing I use to poke holes is a drill that ain't got no cord for the electrickery to go through.

Also, I think I followed everything except the dial-indicate 0-20 degrees is that checking for slop when angled? or am i thinking wrong. I have just the most general idea of the capabilities of a milling machine.
 

MisterFister

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#25
Also, I think I followed everything except the dial-indicate 0-20 degrees is that checking for slop when angled? or am i thinking wrong. I have just the most general idea of the capabilities of a milling machine.
Just looking for slop when the knuckle is off zero. Rare but it'll pen an ellipse and if it pens an ellipse then you'll be angry.


Thanks for the pointers... and the admonishments... Just figured tooling and the single phase conversion would be worth *something*. If we're looking at $700 for a bare machine, unless that's going to get me into DRO territory as well. I just don't have any idea what they bring as the fanciest thing I use to poke holes is a drill that ain't got no cord for the electrickery to go through.
The mill that I shot the pictures...$750. Has DRO but I'll probably put on new. Just got it in about a week ago. All tight and ready to rock. As long as you aren't antsy you'll be surprised what you find at industrial auctions based on your budget.
 

RebelBuddha

Rey de Currumpaw
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#26
Anyone want an industrial bandsaw? 500 you figure out how to get it though.

 
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MisterFister

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#27
Jet HB? Clone? What a wonderful piece of machinery. How can you sit on something like that and not restore it?
 

RebelBuddha

Rey de Currumpaw
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#28
Jet HB? Clone? What a wonderful piece of machinery. How can you sit on something like that and not restore it?
It works and whatnot.... I just have no use for it. Im tooling my shop another way. Its just dusty as fuck.
 

BrIONwoshMunky

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#29
HEY @MisterFister, again not knowing much, are DRO's usually machine powered, or are they independently powered? I don't have access to 3-phase electric, so anything I get will either get a new motor or a phase convertor.

https://www.bidspotter.com/en-us/au...0246/lot-6faf221f-7fe2-4454-a44d-a70b012e22d4

That auction seems to have a bunch of stuff that looks interesting.

EDIT:: Lol, $1k deposit, and an insured rigger to remove machinery. Pfft. Probably need to wait for Grandpa-basement-machinist to kick it.
 
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MisterFister

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#30
DRO's are 120v. just plug 'em in the wall.

That one is a Perfection sale. Fuck 'em. El Douchie McBags. Most of the auction houses will probably require a deposit because you're a newb. They've been fucked too many times. There is no tomfoolery. They aren't hit and run. They want you happy and registering/buying at the next one.

The "insured rigger" is just code for "hey Fuckhead...don't bring your own hilo and expect to tear through the place without first assuming all risk for being an asshole". These auctions take place at the auction customer's building (usually the bank lol) and if you smoke a column the auction house ain't footing the bill. Very standard. Generally, the auction house will make a jewy deal with an insured local rigger and they'll be right there at the auction pimping his wares. Usually (again we get back to Perfection being a bunch of d-bags) the auction house lists who the onsite rigger is. Then you fire off an e-mail to the rigger and say "hey sweetpants...can you give me a load out cost on lot 45" then he e-mails you back "fifty bucks" and then you say "cool man...I'll buy you a hamburger" then he e-mails you back with dick picks offering a free load out for a sloppy beejer then you e-mail back saying something like "just the load out this time...maybe we can hook up at the next one" then he gets offended and says "well then $65 to you, asshole" then you rescind the hamburger offer and say "well you're hired if I win that lot". You'll feel a bit uncomfortable at first but you get numb to it once you procure yourself a couple free load outs for nothing more than a handy. Good times.

You can also load the Bridgeport yourself too if you don't use a hilo. I've seen some crazy shit in my day. I once saw a guy rig a 3" extruder with 2X4's and a couple bottle jacks. I'm standing there laughing with the onsite rigger as he tells me it was only a $100 to lift and drop on the guy's trailer.
 

BrIONwoshMunky

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#32
No you won't. You'll get a variable frequency drive.
Well fine then. Acting like you know shit and stuff.

Also: Do you typically buy stuff in person? Seems like the shit I'm looking at is a fair piece away. If you buy offsite, do you pay freight, or haul yourself?
 
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MisterFister

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#33
Well fine then. Acting like you know shit and stuff.
Just trying to help. I've been through Indiana before...its a shithole. I just assumed you need all the help you can get.

Do you typically buy stuff in person? Seems like the shit I'm looking at is a fair piece away. If you buy offsite, do you pay freight, or haul yourself?
I don't buy for personal use so my end game is totally different than you. I try my best to visit on big ticket items and kick the tires but that's not always possible. I will roll the dice occasionally if I can mitigate risk and maximize reward. I found two robotic welding cells in Texas that I knew a customer would gush over. I wasn't about to saunter down to Texas to look myself so I creatively talked the auctioneer into sending specific pictures. I was happy with what I saw so I made a gentlemen's agreement on the sale of the units before the auction started. I was even if each cell hammered at 20k a piece. If they exceeded 20k then I was on the hook. History and wisdom led me to believe each would end in the 9-10 range. I would have been happy if neither exceeded 13 on this particular deal since the extent of my involvement was knowledge and e-mails. I didn't HAVE to touch a thing.

One ended at $1,200 and the other was right around the same. Yes...a little bit of poop came out. So on that one I lined up a shipper through U-Ship and fired my ass down to Texas. I rigged them all up pretty...removed all the auction stickers...replaced them with Fister's House of Machines and sent them on their way. I fired my ass back to Michigan, met with the customer and told him I have a truck coming out of North Carolina. We offloaded looked everything over and the guy was jizzing his pants with happiness. "These things have barely been ran!"

He had no idea that he just cut me a check for 36k for knowing who to e-mail.

*These deals are rare
 

MisterFister

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#34
BTW...all salesmen lie. The next time someone says "I got it for X and will sell it for Y....cut X by at least 2/3. You are going in with end user money. Shitheads like me need to make their nut on the deal. End users always win because you are eating our nut.
 

BrIONwoshMunky

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#35
BTW...all salesmen lie. The next time someone says "I got it for X and will sell it for Y....cut X by at least 2/3. You are going in with end user money. Shitheads like me need to make their nut on the deal. End users always win because you are eating our nut.
Know anything about metal cutting circular saws? Just used the Makita we have here at work and it seems kind of awesome.

Cut about 12' of 1/4" about as fast as you can rip 3/4” plywood with a standard saw. Again, no whirrly fiber blades of Sparks and doom. Just a clean milled end.
 

Crazizniac

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#36
Milwaukee makes a decent worm drive that is built for cutting steel. The shops that I have helped usually have one sitting on a shelf. They work as well as the blade. So if you are going to use a saw rather than plas or oxy fuel make sure you keep a supply of good blades on hand. Also, the blade lifetime is directly related to the number of, and skill of the workers using the saw. A moron will dull a blade much quicker than a skilled worker. Three operators will dull a blade quicker than a designated cut man. Last but not least. Adjust the blade depth for the gauge you are cutting. We have found that adjusting to 1/2 inch below depth will conserve the blade. Adjusting to max depth for all cuts will waste the blade.

Realistically most fitters will choose a hand plas over the saw, it is quicker to change consumables and desiccant than blades and with a drag tip and a straight edge the cut is way faster.

(If you are going to cut over 1/2 inch material don't waste yur time on anything under a 100amp plasma source.)
 

BrIONwoshMunky

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#37
Milwaukee makes a decent worm drive that is built for cutting steel. The shops that I have helped usually have one sitting on a shelf. They work as well as the blade. So if you are going to use a saw rather than plas or oxy fuel make sure you keep a supply of good blades on hand. Also, the blade lifetime is directly related to the number of, and skill of the workers using the saw. A moron will dull a blade much quicker than a skilled worker. Three operators will dull a blade quicker than a designated cut man. Last but not least. Adjust the blade depth for the gauge you are cutting. We have found that adjusting to 1/2 inch below depth will conserve the blade. Adjusting to max depth for all cuts will waste the blade.

Realistically most fitters will choose a hand plas over the saw, it is quicker to change consumables and desiccant than blades and with a drag tip and a straight edge the cut is way faster.

(If you are going to cut over 1/2 inch material don't waste yur time on anything under a 100amp plasma source.)
Thanks for the reply Craz.

I've looked around and haven't seen a worm drive specifically for metal, you wouldn't happen to have a link handy would you?

I'm not really looking for long term payoff as it's just a hobby, and taking up floor space with a dedicated cutting machine that is 10 times more expensive isn't practical for me currently. Though I'm aware that better tools generally yield better results, budget is a factor, as is portability. Slinging a 110 volt circle saw around and storing it in a cabinet, out of the way for the 11months a year it isn't used makes more sense to me right now.
 

Crazizniac

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#38
Firstly I was wrong. I don't think the metal specific saw is a worm drive. I'm looking in the latest Northern tool and supply catalogue and it's retailing there for $299. Note the shroud configuration when you look at it. If you generally preload the shroud of your saws to get better visibility you will find it very difficult to do with the 6370-21. They don't want fingers anywhere near the blade so get used to striking an offset line to use as a guide and don't plan on preloading to cheat -peek during the cut. Also wear your PPE, your ears and eyes fingers are in jeopardy any time you cut steel. also think about the drop. A 2 X 4 ain't gonna smash your foot or gouge your shin to bone on its way to the floor so use horses and make an adjustable jack stand to support your drop.
 

BrIONwoshMunky

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#39
Firstly I was wrong. I don't think the metal specific saw is a worm drive. I'm looking in the latest Northern tool and supply catalogue and it's retailing there for $299. Note the shroud configuration when you look at it. If you generally preload the shroud of your saws to get better visibility you will find it very difficult to do with the 6370-21. They don't want fingers anywhere near the blade so get used to striking an offset line to use as a guide and don't plan on preloading to cheat -peek during the cut. Also wear your PPE, your ears and eyes fingers are in jeopardy any time you cut steel. also think about the drop. A 2 X 4 ain't gonna smash your foot or gouge your shin to bone on its way to the floor so use horses and make an adjustable jack stand to support your drop.
Yup. With steel bits flying all over the place, and the horrendous screeching of the blade rubbing against the cut, PPE is a must.

You wouldn't have any experience with the Milwaukee v. Makita would you? As I said, I used one on 1/4” steel at work the other day and I know the guys have used the same saw on 1/2" material as well. Seems like they run more expensive ($50-100, but I haven't checked if either comes with a blade) than the Milwaukee, and they run 7 1/4" blades v. The Milwaukee's 8"
 

Crazizniac

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#40
Pretty sure they're built in the same plants over in the chi-com.